We dismantle the tent after breakfast and it takes two hours to take everything down, pack it all away and load it into the cars. Just to help matters, after a dry night, it starts raining as we begin to take down the tent. We will have to dry everything out once we reach home.
We stop in South Molton for coffee and to do a bit of shopping in their new Sainsburys. We stop for lunch at Knightshayes - the car park is extremely busy as entrance is free this weekend - and arrive home at around 3 pm.
Saturday 10 September 2011
Friday 9 September 2011
Week 1 Day 5 - Combe Martin to Woolacombe
Our final day of walking for the week. We leave the car at Combe Martin and head off along the coast path which winds in and out of the many bays and inlets between Combe Martin and Ilfracombe. We pass through Sandy Bay and the view over Small Mouth near Briery Cave is spectacular.
We lose our way in a camp site near Watermouth Castle and are put back on track by the receptionist at the entrance. The tide is out so we can follow the beach path at Water Mouth. We go round Widmouth Head and almost end up back where we started after a mile of ups and downs. The path follows the main A399 into Hele Bay and we have another small headland to navigate before we descend to Ifracombe Harbour and a welcome cup of coffee in a very nice harbour coffee shop.
We are a dishevelled couple by this time. The path this morning has been quite muddy and both of us are sporting mud up the inside of our trousers nearly as far as our knees.
We stop for lunch at Lee Bay where the Lee Bay Hotel is boarded up and fenced off. There is a thunderstorm approaching as we eat lunch and we have to break off half way through to escape the rain. We shelter in a small cafe in the village and enjoy a cup of coffee.
There is one enormous crack of thunder as we leave Lee Bay and that is the last that we hear of the thunderstorm. The path from there to Morte Point, past the Bull Point lighthouse, is undulating and muddy in places. We arrive in Woolacombe just as the B1 bus to Ifracombe is about to leave and we manage to get on board.
We only have to wait 5 minutes in Ifracombe for a connection to Combe Martin and the car to take us back to camp.
In the evening, we have supper in the Queens Hotel in Lynton which is a lively place serving excellent pub food and excellent ales.
Distance completed today: 12.6 miles
Total distance completed: 54.0 miles (8.6%)
We lose our way in a camp site near Watermouth Castle and are put back on track by the receptionist at the entrance. The tide is out so we can follow the beach path at Water Mouth. We go round Widmouth Head and almost end up back where we started after a mile of ups and downs. The path follows the main A399 into Hele Bay and we have another small headland to navigate before we descend to Ifracombe Harbour and a welcome cup of coffee in a very nice harbour coffee shop.
We are a dishevelled couple by this time. The path this morning has been quite muddy and both of us are sporting mud up the inside of our trousers nearly as far as our knees.
We stop for lunch at Lee Bay where the Lee Bay Hotel is boarded up and fenced off. There is a thunderstorm approaching as we eat lunch and we have to break off half way through to escape the rain. We shelter in a small cafe in the village and enjoy a cup of coffee.
There is one enormous crack of thunder as we leave Lee Bay and that is the last that we hear of the thunderstorm. The path from there to Morte Point, past the Bull Point lighthouse, is undulating and muddy in places. We arrive in Woolacombe just as the B1 bus to Ifracombe is about to leave and we manage to get on board.
We only have to wait 5 minutes in Ifracombe for a connection to Combe Martin and the car to take us back to camp.
In the evening, we have supper in the Queens Hotel in Lynton which is a lively place serving excellent pub food and excellent ales.
Distance completed today: 12.6 miles
Total distance completed: 54.0 miles (8.6%)
Thursday 8 September 2011
Week 1 Day 4 - Lynmouth to Combe Martin
We are getting into our stride now and are up early and away to walk to Combe Martin.
We park the Golf in Lynmouth, in the same car park as the bus comes into, and set off along the coast towards the Valley of Rocks. The coast path is spectacular, hugging the cliff edge with a massive drop down to the sea. We pass inland of Castle Rock, past Lee Bay and on to Woody Bay. We are passed by a road sweeper - strange to see in such a remote place - before we dive into the woods and continue on to Heddon's Mouth.
Here we stop for coffee and a chat with visitors walking down from the Hunters Inn further up the valley. Then we tackle Peters Rock where the path is very exposed and high above the sea. The guide book recommends avoidance in bad weather, but we carry on despite the strong winds. In the end, it doesn't seem that bad and we enjoy superb views along the North Devon coast and across the channel to Wales and the Gower peninsula.
The walk across Holdstone Down is easy, on tracks most of the way. We squat on the grass at Sherrycombe to eat our lunch before tackling the highest point on the whole South West Coast Path, Great Hangman at 1043 feet.
The descent into Combe Martin is pleasant with superb views of the town and the coast round Hangman Point. We have tea in Combe Martin and buy a small picnic table for use inside the tent before catching the bus back to Lynmouth. The bus is early arriving in Lynton and waits for about 15 minutes before going down the hill to Lynmouth where we have left the car.
Distance completed today: 13.3 miles
Total distance completed: 41.4 miles (6.6%)
We park the Golf in Lynmouth, in the same car park as the bus comes into, and set off along the coast towards the Valley of Rocks. The coast path is spectacular, hugging the cliff edge with a massive drop down to the sea. We pass inland of Castle Rock, past Lee Bay and on to Woody Bay. We are passed by a road sweeper - strange to see in such a remote place - before we dive into the woods and continue on to Heddon's Mouth.
Here we stop for coffee and a chat with visitors walking down from the Hunters Inn further up the valley. Then we tackle Peters Rock where the path is very exposed and high above the sea. The guide book recommends avoidance in bad weather, but we carry on despite the strong winds. In the end, it doesn't seem that bad and we enjoy superb views along the North Devon coast and across the channel to Wales and the Gower peninsula.
The walk across Holdstone Down is easy, on tracks most of the way. We squat on the grass at Sherrycombe to eat our lunch before tackling the highest point on the whole South West Coast Path, Great Hangman at 1043 feet.
The descent into Combe Martin is pleasant with superb views of the town and the coast round Hangman Point. We have tea in Combe Martin and buy a small picnic table for use inside the tent before catching the bus back to Lynmouth. The bus is early arriving in Lynton and waits for about 15 minutes before going down the hill to Lynmouth where we have left the car.
Distance completed today: 13.3 miles
Total distance completed: 41.4 miles (6.6%)
Wednesday 7 September 2011
Week 1 Day 3 - Porlock Weir to Lynmouth
We are back on the planned route today, but one day later than planned. The winds have eased but it is still quite showery and damp underfoot. We leave the car at Porlock Weir and set off up the hill towards Culbone along with several other groups of walkers.
We take coffee in the porch of Culbone Church - it is raining so we can't sit outside! As we arrive, one group of three is just leaving and whilst we are there one group of three and another couple arrive and take a look around the church which is purported to be the smallest parish church in England.
We continue along the coast path through Culbone Wood, Embelle Wood and Yenworthy Wood. We stop for lunch at Sister's Fountain which is a memorial to the two daughters of the first owner of Glenthorne House - an isolated mansion on the coast.
We proceed past the entrance to the house out onto the cliffs of the Glenthorne Estate. The cliffs are covered in rhododendrons as far as the eye can see. These must be a splendid sight in the early summer when the blooms are at their peak. We have to pick our way around a recent landslide and make our way to the access road to Foreland Lighthouse.
We descend to almost sea level before climbing up to the village of Countisbury on top of the famous Countisbury Hill and descend alongside the road down into Lynmouth.
We have a cup of tea in the town before catching the bus back to Porlock. The bus is some 15 minutes late in arriving and we are worried we will miss our connection to Porlock Weir. But all is well and we are back at the car around 6pm. After changing our shoes, we cross to The Bottom Ship - the pub in Porlock Weir - for an early supper washed down with Exmoor bitter before driving back to camp.
Distance completed today: 12.3 miles
Total distance completed: 28.1 miles (4.5%)
We take coffee in the porch of Culbone Church - it is raining so we can't sit outside! As we arrive, one group of three is just leaving and whilst we are there one group of three and another couple arrive and take a look around the church which is purported to be the smallest parish church in England.
We continue along the coast path through Culbone Wood, Embelle Wood and Yenworthy Wood. We stop for lunch at Sister's Fountain which is a memorial to the two daughters of the first owner of Glenthorne House - an isolated mansion on the coast.
We proceed past the entrance to the house out onto the cliffs of the Glenthorne Estate. The cliffs are covered in rhododendrons as far as the eye can see. These must be a splendid sight in the early summer when the blooms are at their peak. We have to pick our way around a recent landslide and make our way to the access road to Foreland Lighthouse.
We descend to almost sea level before climbing up to the village of Countisbury on top of the famous Countisbury Hill and descend alongside the road down into Lynmouth.
We have a cup of tea in the town before catching the bus back to Porlock. The bus is some 15 minutes late in arriving and we are worried we will miss our connection to Porlock Weir. But all is well and we are back at the car around 6pm. After changing our shoes, we cross to The Bottom Ship - the pub in Porlock Weir - for an early supper washed down with Exmoor bitter before driving back to camp.
Distance completed today: 12.3 miles
Total distance completed: 28.1 miles (4.5%)
Tuesday 6 September 2011
Week 1 Day 2 - Woolacombe to Croyde Bay
A storm rages all night long, it rains cats and dogs and the tent creaks and groans in the strong winds. However, it survives intact with only a little water ingress near one of the side door zips. At 5 am we venture out to go to the loo and find 3 Germans sheltering by the laundry - their tent had blown out at about 3 am! We thank out lucky stars that we have a good solid tent. The West Lyn river, which runs along the campsite, is very swollen with the heavy rain during the night.
We get up late and it is still chucking it down so we decide to abandon the planned walk from Porlock Weir to Lynmouth. We take a leisurely cooked breakfast in the camp-site cafe - along with the 3 drowned Germans and their friend - and drive into Ifracombe for a look around. On the way, we stop at Hele Bay for Liz to have a nostalgic look at Moles Farm where she used to stay on holiday as a young girl.
Ilfracombe town centre is quite run down and not what one expects of a major seaside resort. However, the sea front proves more acceptable and, after purchasing a bus timetable in the tourist inforation office, we take coffee in the foyer of the Landmark Theatre. With the rain easing off, we decide to try our luck at a half-day walk and Woolacombe to Croyde Bay seems the best bet.
We park in the sea front car park at Woolacombe and set off along the path in the sand dunes behind the beach. We stop on a bench soon after Putsborough, on the cliffs overlooking Morte Bay, for lunch. Although it is dry, it is very grey and the rain arrives as we are finishing lunch. We continue round Baggy Point in a howling gale and spot a RAF rescue helicopter by the cliffs. It turns out they are out on a practice rather than an actual rescue, but the pilot's control of the machine is impressive in the strong winds.
On arriving in Croyde Bay, we rush forward to catch the next bus to Braunton which is just about to leave. Then we realise we will have a long wait in Braunton before there is a bus to Ilfracombe, so we decide to walk back as it would be quicker. Then we notice that there is a special B1 service for surfers and bikers that only runs during the summer months and will take us back to Woolacombe in one go if we wait for about an hour. So we decide to have a cup of tea in the National Trust tea shop before catching the bus to Woolacombe and making our way back to our camp in Lynton.
Distance completed today: 6.3 miles
Total distance completed: 15.8 miles (2.5%)
We get up late and it is still chucking it down so we decide to abandon the planned walk from Porlock Weir to Lynmouth. We take a leisurely cooked breakfast in the camp-site cafe - along with the 3 drowned Germans and their friend - and drive into Ifracombe for a look around. On the way, we stop at Hele Bay for Liz to have a nostalgic look at Moles Farm where she used to stay on holiday as a young girl.
Ilfracombe town centre is quite run down and not what one expects of a major seaside resort. However, the sea front proves more acceptable and, after purchasing a bus timetable in the tourist inforation office, we take coffee in the foyer of the Landmark Theatre. With the rain easing off, we decide to try our luck at a half-day walk and Woolacombe to Croyde Bay seems the best bet.
We park in the sea front car park at Woolacombe and set off along the path in the sand dunes behind the beach. We stop on a bench soon after Putsborough, on the cliffs overlooking Morte Bay, for lunch. Although it is dry, it is very grey and the rain arrives as we are finishing lunch. We continue round Baggy Point in a howling gale and spot a RAF rescue helicopter by the cliffs. It turns out they are out on a practice rather than an actual rescue, but the pilot's control of the machine is impressive in the strong winds.
On arriving in Croyde Bay, we rush forward to catch the next bus to Braunton which is just about to leave. Then we realise we will have a long wait in Braunton before there is a bus to Ilfracombe, so we decide to walk back as it would be quicker. Then we notice that there is a special B1 service for surfers and bikers that only runs during the summer months and will take us back to Woolacombe in one go if we wait for about an hour. So we decide to have a cup of tea in the National Trust tea shop before catching the bus to Woolacombe and making our way back to our camp in Lynton.
Distance completed today: 6.3 miles
Total distance completed: 15.8 miles (2.5%)
Monday 5 September 2011
Week 1 Day 1 - Minehead to Porlock Weir
We get up at 7 am, shower, dress, eat breakfast (cereal), check in at reception (as it was closed yesterday) and drive in the Golf to Porlock Weir hoping to catch the bus to Minehead. We know it is touch and go if we will make it in time and the bus is pulling up to the bus stop just as we arrive.
Liz goes off to get the car-parking ticket (£4 for the day), leaving me to hold the bus. There are a few people getting on so I assume I have time to get my things together first. When I next look up, the bus is pulling out and Liz is standing there aghast at my incompetence!
Having wasted £4 on the parking ticket, we drive to Minehead, spend another £4.20 on parking, have a coffee, buy some waterproof trousers for me and set off on the coast path in pouring rain.
The day continues to be a succession of showers and sunshine all the way to Porlock Weir. We have lunch in fine weather sitting on a bench at the top of Hurlstone Combe overlooking Bossington Beach and the Bristol Channel. After lunch, the walk across the marshes between Bossington and Porlock Weir is fascinating. The sea has recently breached the pebble ridge of Bossington Beach and floods the land behind at times of high water. Luckily the water levels are low today and we can cross the marsh and see all the dead trees and changing vegetation.
When we finally get to Porlock Weir we have a couple of hours to kill before the bus arrives to take us back to Minehead. We take a leisurely afternoon tea in a delightful tea shop overlooking the bay, stroll around the village and sit on a bench for half an hour until the bus comes.
After getting back to Lynton, we shower, change and go out to dinner at the Bath Hotel in Lynmouth to celebrate our 41st wedding anniversary.
Distance completed: 9.5 miles, 1.5% complete.
Liz goes off to get the car-parking ticket (£4 for the day), leaving me to hold the bus. There are a few people getting on so I assume I have time to get my things together first. When I next look up, the bus is pulling out and Liz is standing there aghast at my incompetence!
Having wasted £4 on the parking ticket, we drive to Minehead, spend another £4.20 on parking, have a coffee, buy some waterproof trousers for me and set off on the coast path in pouring rain.
The day continues to be a succession of showers and sunshine all the way to Porlock Weir. We have lunch in fine weather sitting on a bench at the top of Hurlstone Combe overlooking Bossington Beach and the Bristol Channel. After lunch, the walk across the marshes between Bossington and Porlock Weir is fascinating. The sea has recently breached the pebble ridge of Bossington Beach and floods the land behind at times of high water. Luckily the water levels are low today and we can cross the marsh and see all the dead trees and changing vegetation.
When we finally get to Porlock Weir we have a couple of hours to kill before the bus arrives to take us back to Minehead. We take a leisurely afternoon tea in a delightful tea shop overlooking the bay, stroll around the village and sit on a bench for half an hour until the bus comes.
After getting back to Lynton, we shower, change and go out to dinner at the Bath Hotel in Lynmouth to celebrate our 41st wedding anniversary.
Distance completed: 9.5 miles, 1.5% complete.
Sunday 4 September 2011
Week 1 Day 0 - Sherborne to Lynton
We have decided to walk to South-West Coast Path in stages over the next couple of years starting with the section from Minehead to Barnstaple this week. We are camping in a central location - probably Lynton - and taking two cars. A campsite near Blackmoor Gate would be more central but more exposed and isolated up near to Exmoor. Lynton sounds a better bet with more facilities nearby in the town and in Lynmouth down the valley.
We leave Sherborne after overnight rain and stop in Taunton to stock up with supplies at Sainsburys and to eat lunch at the Hankridge Arms. We both have their roast beef which is very good.
The weather is excellent as we drive across Exmoor to Lynton, via Exford, and we arrive at the campsite just after 3pm. There is nobody in reception. So we take the advice of a neighbour, who is out gardening, and pick our own spot. It soon starts raining as we assemble the tent and continues raining steadily for the next 3 hours.
When it stops raining we put up the new Front Extension and turn in for an early night.
We leave Sherborne after overnight rain and stop in Taunton to stock up with supplies at Sainsburys and to eat lunch at the Hankridge Arms. We both have their roast beef which is very good.
The weather is excellent as we drive across Exmoor to Lynton, via Exford, and we arrive at the campsite just after 3pm. There is nobody in reception. So we take the advice of a neighbour, who is out gardening, and pick our own spot. It soon starts raining as we assemble the tent and continues raining steadily for the next 3 hours.
When it stops raining we put up the new Front Extension and turn in for an early night.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)